Good question, and for that particular charger, I don't know how that reviewer arrived at their conclusions. However, for
this charger, the data seems to jive with what SGDM1 was saying. Charging over USB is apparently not as straight forward as one might think, since the base spec is only 500 mA and various handshakes need to take place in order for a device to determine that the particular charger it's hooked to will be able to supply more current without damaging it.
To answer your question about measuring current, yeah, that's pretty much the only way. You can also play some tricks by splicing in a small value resistor in series with the load and using a voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across it. Since V=IR, you can determine the current by dividing the measured voltage by the resistance.